Full Camino Frances Walking: Saint Jean Pied de Port to Santiago (self-guided)

Arrival Saint Jean Pied de Port. Enjoy this medieval feeling mountain town in the foothills of the Pyrenees. Pick up your first stamp for your Pilgrim´s Passport. 

Getting there - fly to Biarritz (55km away) and take a taxi or we can arrange a transfer to pick you up and take you to Saint Jean Pied de Port. If you want to arrive under your own steam you can take the airport coach to Bayonne railway station and the mountian railway to St Jean Pied de Port. Other options would be to fly to Bordeaux or Bilbao. 

Saint Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles (25km). This is the toughest bit so don´t be put off, it gets easier after this stage. You have the choice of two different routes to Roncesvalles depending on your level of fitness and the weather. You can take the Napoleon Route across the mountains or via the hamlet of Valcarlos, down in the valley. Taking the Valcarlos route will mean your ascent will be more gradual, you can break the journey in two stages and the highest point will be Roncesvalles. 

The Napoleon Route (25.1km) with a cumulative ascent of 1,390m is the longest and most arduous but also the most spectacular and beautiful. This was the way favoured by the French general to get his troops in and out of Spain during the Peninsular War and by medieval pilgrims anxious to avoid the bandits hiding in the trees surrounding the lower route. It is the route of choice in good weather. The first 11.4km is by quiet country lanes but the last section is by paths. 

Valcarlos route (24km) with a cumulative ascent of 990m was the way chosen by the Holy Roman Emperor Charlemagne to get his troops in and out of Spain. You can split this stage into two and overnight in Valcarlos (12km). From Valcarlos to Roncesvalles The Camino mainly follows the road which runs through the valley alongside the Nive and Valcarlos rivers. 

Roncesvalles to Zubiri (21km). From Roncesvalles, the route continues through beech and oak woods before reaching Espinal taking in two mountain passes: Alto de Mezquiriz and Alto de Erro. The trail then descends towards the town of Zubiri and its medieval “Puente de la Rabia” (Rabies Bridge) over the River Arga.

Zubiri to Pamplona (21km). Today, you follow the river Arga to the hamlet of Larrasoaña, which was an important stop for pilgrims in Medieval times. The second half of the day gets busier, as you approach the bustling city of Pamplona. You may want to build in a rest day here to soak up the city famous for its San Fermin running of the bulls festival, the medieval streets of the old town and the great food and wine, retracing the steps of Hemmingway and visiting his favourite haunts around the main square. 

Pamplona to Puente de la Reina (24km). The first 5km is mostly urban as you make your way out of the city and suburbs. As you leave Pamplona behind you, you will start your ascent towards the “Alto del Perdón” (Hill of Forgiveness). When you reach the top you will come across a wonderful iron pilgrim sculpture and great views of Pamplona and the valley beyond. From there, you will begin your descent towards Puente la Reina with its medieval alleys and impressive 11th century bridge over the River Arga.

Puente de la Reina to Estella (22km). Today you will enjoy gently rolling farmland and vineyards. Small towns and villages are dotted amongst cereal fields, vineyards and olive trees. Perched on a hilltop, Cirauqui is a pretty little village with winding medieval streets where you will find one of the best-preserved stretches of Roman road between here and Lorca. 

Estella to Arcos (21km). Today you are heading towards the region of La Rioja with its olive trees, cereal fields and, of course its vineyards. Today will feel very rural as you walk through open countryside. From Villamayor do Monjardin to Los Arcos, you will cover 12 km without coming across a single village. Ensure that you have plenty of water and use sun protection.

Los Arcos to Logroño (28km). Another day through open countryside. It’s time to leave Navarra and move into La Rioja. Expect a pleasant hike through undulating countryside. On this route, you will pass the little town of Viana before coming to the town of Logroño, capital of the world-famous wine-producing region of La Rioja. It is a long day. If you want you can split it into two and overnight in Viana (17km+11km). 

Logroño to Najera (28km). Today is an easy stage through a vineyard-dominated landscape. You will come to the village of Navarrete after 12 km and will have a chance to visit the fabulous Baroque church of La Ascension. You will reach Najera in the afternoon, where you can enjoy panoramic views from this hill-top town. If you want to break your journey you can overnight in Navarette. 

Najera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada (21km). Today you will enjoy wide country tracks passing through remote gently undulating farmland with only the last bit into Santo Domingo alongside the main road. You will see the Cantabrian mountain range to the north, and the Demanda mountain range to your south.

Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Belorado (23km). After a brief walk through a wooded area, the Camino takes us through crop fields, interspersed with small brooks and oak woods. The Oca mountains will soon be visible on  the horizon. Beldorado is historic town built in the steep valley of the river Tiron with some interesting cave dwellings. 

Belorado to Atapuerca (29km). This stage is similar to the previous one until you get to Villafranca Montes de Oca (14km). However, as you go deeper into the woods, you will soon discover the beautiful Oca mountains. Atapuerca, known for its UNESCO World Heritage prehistoric caves where the earliest ever human remains have been discovered (3km off the Camino trail). This is a long day walking. You can split the day in two and overnight in Villafranca Montes de Oca (11km+18km)

Atapuerca to Burgos (20km). As you begin to descend, you will reach the flat river valley taking you to the suburbs of the city of Burgos, home to one of Spain’s most beautiful cathedrals. You may wish to build in a rest day here as this is a city worth spending some time in and getting to know. Burgos was the capital of the unified kingdom of Castile & Leon for five centuries and its Cathedral is a masterpiece of Spanish Gothic architecture (a UNESCO World Heritage Site). In addition to a visit to the historic quarter, go for a walk along the banks of the Duero and Arlanza rivers or discover the delicious and varied local cuisine in one of the city's restaurants.

Burgos to Hornillos del Camino (21km). Today we leave behind urban Burgos and enter the relative wilderness of the Meseta. Over half of today will be along earth tracks through seemingly endless wheat, barley and oat fields.

Hornillos del Camino to Castrojeriz (20km). Today we head towards Castrojeriz, upwards to another plateau and then down towards the River Bol valley. 

Castrojeriz to Fromista (25km). After Castrojeriz, situated on the hillside between the valleys of the Odrilla and Pisuerga rivers, comes Alto Mosterales - the highest point on the Meseta, and the last plains in the Burgos region. When you reach the top look back and enjoy the view back at the valley behind you. The River Pisuerga brings you into the province of Palencia and on into the Tierra de Campo. Fromista has always been an important stopping point on the pilgrimage to Santiago. It boasts an 11^th century church which is reputedly one of the finest examples of pure Romanesque in Spain. It is quite perfect in size, proportions and colour in a mellow stone.  

Fromista to Carrion de los Condes (19km). Today’s route takes you along a track parallel to the road. You have the option though to take a more scenic route at Población de Campos, via Villovieco, along the peaceful banks of the Ucieza river and pick up The Camino at Villalcazar de Sirga.

Carrion de los Condes to Calzadilla de la Cueza (17km). Today we continue with the seemingly endless rural landscape. Most of The Camino will be along the old paved Roman road Via Aquitana which connected with Astorga.

Calzada de la Cuesta to Sahagun (23km). Along this stretch, the countryside is dominated by the serenely beautiful but arid plains of Castile, leading to Sahagún the historical and cultural landmark town, boasting emblematic Romanesque Mudejar churches among many other attractions

Sahagun to El Burgo Ranero (17km). We are in the province of Leon now. You have two possible points to stop and refill your water bottles and recharge your batteries -  Calzada del Coto and Bercianos del Real Camino. 

El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de las Mulas (19km). Today´s route takes you through the pretty village of Reliegos before arriving at Mansilla de las Mulas an important pilgrim resting point.

Mansilla de las Mulas to Leon (19km). This stage runs parallel to land that has been set aside for irrigated crops. Later, the first signs of industrial activity become visible. From Portillo Hill you will be able to make out the beautiful city of Leon. Leon boasts an exceptional artistic heritage, the most outstanding element of which is the Gothic cathedral. This may be a good place to stay an extra night and enjoy a rest day to take in the city. 

Leon to Mazarife (21km). The route out of Leon takes you right through the city to the village of Virgen del Camino, where legend has it that the Virgin appeared to a shepherd in 1506, and asked him to build a shrine. This stage is quite exposed as you cross the barren plains. 

Mazarife to Astorga (31km). Today expect more walking along the plains but there are some attractive sections with trees. Hospital de Orbigo is your halfway point and a good place to stop for lunch. After this point you have some (gentle) hills before arriving in Astorga. The Roman city of Astorga is steeped in history and the home of chocolate in Spain. This is a good town for a rest day - and to stock up on chocolate! This is a long day walking which you can break up by overnighting in Hospital de Obrigo (14km +17km). 

Astorga to Rabanal del Camino (20km). The first village we come to after leaving Astorga is Murias de Rechivaldo. The Camino starts a gradual and steady ascent to the intersection of Santa Catalina de Somoza before moving onto to El Ganso, after about an hour’s walk. It’s now time for the last steep slope of the day before we reach the end of the stage in Rabanal del Camino after hiking through an oak forest with its huge Pilgrim's Oak that provides a resting point for travellers.

Rabanal del Camino to Ponferrada (32km). This stage is the highest on the entire route and is one of the loveliest stretches of The Camino. The road out of Rabanal climbs to a mysterious landscape wrapped in clean mountain air. The Camino leads to the Iron Cross at an altitude of 1,500 metres, which is marked by a simple tall cross on a large wooden mast. The route continues onto El Acebo, another famous hamlet and essential stop on the Camino which welcomes us to the Bierzo region. Then it moves onto Riego de Ambrós and returns to the 21st century in Molinaseca. You will notice that The Camino also undergoes a transition from the straight route of the flat plains to the winding country lanes snaking up and down around the hills all the way to Santiago. Your highest point will be Cruz de Ferro, at 1,504m in altitude, it is one of the highest points along the French Way. It is also the symbolic place on the pilgrimage where travellers place a small stone that they have brought from their homeland. From this point it´s down hill to Molinaseca and on to Ponferrada. This is a long day walking which you can break up by overnighting in El Acebo (16km+16km). 

Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo (24km). We are now in the Bierzo region with its unique micro climate lending itself generously to the respected Bierzo wines.  At Villafranca del Bierzo you will find a fine collection of monuments and the Romanesque Church of Santiago. Here, pilgrims who were unable to reach Santiago de Compostela could receive plenary indulgence and forgiveness for all their sins. 

Villafranca del Bierzo to O Cebreiro (31km). The Bierzo region and Galicia meet on this stretch which culminates at 1,300 m in O Cebreiro, which is perhaps the most mythical of all the villages on this part of The Camino, and heavily charged with symbolism. The last eight kilometres is a climb of some 690 metres. However the spectacular views of the countryside and the notion that Santiago de Compostela is drawing nearer more than compensate. This is a long day walking. You can break it up and overnight in Herrerias (21km+9km) if you want to take it easier. 

O Cebreiro to Triacastela (21km). The Bierzo region and Galicia, the lush countryside and the Galician mountains dominate this stretch. You are now in Galicia, and O Cebreiro offers us one of the most beautiful landscapes on The Camino. There is a climb towards the Alto de San Roque and later to the Alto de O Poio (1,335 m), which is the highest point in Galicia on the French Route, offering spectacular views. After crossing the Alto do Poio, the descent to the hamlet of Triacastela begins.

Triacastela to Saria (19km). From Triacastela, there are two ways to reach Sarria, via San XiI or via Samos, (the latter crosses Samos, with its beautiful Benedictine monastery). The path to San Xil is well signposted and runs through a mainly hilly landscape. The route branches off at the end of Triacastela to the right. Initially, you will be walking on a road, but this soon changes into forest bridleways. The next village is Fonte dos Lameiros , with its large pilgrim shell monument, and then after some undulating hills, you will reach San Xil, before continuing onto Sarria through different villages. The San Xil route is shorter by 6.4km and has the steep climb up to alto do Riocabo. With Celtic origins, Sarria was a major centre for pilgrims in medieval times. These ancient origins can still be felt today as you wonder around the beautiful streets of the old quarter. Although this is not a long day walking, some pilgrims opt to break the day in two and overnight in Samos (9km + 10km). 

Sarria to Portomarin (22km). Start walking up and down the hills of Galicia through forests and rural landscapes to reach the town of Portomarín over the River Miño. This town has the peculiarity that it was moved in 1962, when a reservoir was built in the River Miño leaving the old town submerged underwater. The old church was moved stone by stone to its new location. This church is a good example of a fortress church with towers and battlements, very typical of the military orders that guarded The Camino in the middle ages and protected the pilgrims from thieves. You can overnight in Morgade (12km + 10km) if you want to break this journey up. 

Portomarin to Palas de Rei (22km). Today`s walk starts with a steady uphill hike to the village of Ventas de Narón. Once you reach this point, the walk gets gentler. There will be plenty of places to stop along the way to enjoy a break, a picnic and to talk to locals and other walkers. The stage ends in the town of Palas de Rei. Now you can really start to feel the buzz and atmosphere of The Camino as there are lots of walkers overnighting here on their journey. This day can be broken up with the option of overnighting halfway in Ventas de Naron (11km+11km). 

Palas de Rei to Arzua (28km). Today you will be walking a particularly beautiful stretch of the Camino. You will cross roman bridges and several rivers mostly through delightful woodland to get to the town of Melide. This town is famous for its bars where they sell octopus cooked the Galician way. Melide is also where pilgrims from the Camino Primitivo (Oviedo Way) join the main Camino Francés. Continue up to Arzúa, famous for its local cheese. You can break this journey up and overnight in Melide halfway (14km +14km). 

Arzua to Lavacolla (29km). Today you will be walking amongst woodland, meadows and small orchards, and passing through numerous small and charming villages. You can break this stretch up and overnight in Pedrouzo-Rua (19km +10km). 

Lavacolla to Santiago de Compostela (10km). Today is your final day walking and you will make your way through forests and rural areas to the famous Monte do Gozo. This is where you will get your first glance of in the distance of the spires of Santiago Cathedral. From here you only have 5 more kilometres until you reach the Plaza del Obradoiro (Obradoiro Square). This is the famous square where pilgrims congregate to celebrate their longed for arrival and end of their journey in Santiago de Compostela. The square is surrounded by the beautiful facade of the Cathedral and the old stone buildings of the Parador de los Reyes Católicos and the Town Hall. Do not forget to get your Compostelana (certificate in Latin of your pilgrimage) - you´ve earned it!